Skip to main content

2 天

In early September, the weather had still been too hot to be outside during the day. The first thing I noticed was that Taiwanese people are not into the concept of hot weather wear. Despite the raging heat, people were still dressed in pants and long shirts. Even summer gear was restrained to t-shirts and longish shorts. I was basically in beach gear, armed with tank tops and and new (short) denim shorts — my friend said knees were now in. Incredibly, Frank wore jeans our entire trip, and I couldn’t figure out why he wanted to sweat it out so much. Then again, growing up, he was always in jeans and a windbreaker, even as we played football.

Now, in mid-October, the weather was perfect and it was actually comfortable to be outdoors during the day. Daisy and I went to Gongguan, an area apparently populated by 80% sneaker and shoe stores. There was quite a bit of food around too, and at an open faced noodle shop, Daisy introduced me to Waygo, the iPhone App that reads menus. Instantaneously. (Like, why am I even trying to learn Chinese when technology will outpace me?) The app reads Japanese, Chinese, Korean, as well as many others, and while it’s far from perfect, its fast character recognization and coolness outweight an errors. The other app I was told to use was Pleco, a Chinese dictionary app.

After lunch, we wandered around Gongguan, eventually heading into a nearby water park. From what we could tell, it was just a (potentially) super fun water park. It was mostly abandoned but featured huge water slides, pools large enough to fit small Shamus, and a plant area to show off irrigation and mysteriously, giant wire sculptures of pegasus, dinosaurs, and the like. During the summer the water park apparently gets very crowded, but we were there and saw maybe ten people total, most of them older people about to use the smaller exercise pool. The water park was created by the Taipei Water Department, to educate the public on proper water usage.

We parted ways afterwards and I prepared for a traditional night out on the town, led by Veronica, whom I met last trip out. On the schedule was a visit to the Love Temple and then a nearby night market. First up, the love temple! Called Xia Hai City God Temple (霞海城隍廟), it's located near the old streets of Taipei where merchants hawk textiles and Chinese herbs. The temple isn't all that big but it apparently gets very busy at the right times. When we went, it was mostly empty, and we got plenty of individual attention, probably because we really had no idea what we were doing.

First thing you gotta do is buy some fake money, three sticks of incense, and then go from station to station, stating your desires and bowing to each god. "Stating your desires" can run the gamut from "get me a boy/girlfriend" to getting very specific stuff. You are told to start by stating your name, where you are from, and what you would like. All this happens in your head. When you're done, you bai-bai three times and stick the incense into the big tub, filled with sand/rice.

I asked for deliverance from being a horrible boyfriend, of course.

Afterwards, we took a short walk toward a night market, which turned out to be Ningxia, the same one Frank and I had first visited. Back then, Frank had been hesitant to try some of the foods, either out of unfamiliarity or a general wariness of the food quality. Since my body is my outhouse, I jumped right in and ordered whatever looked good. I didn’t know what was actually good or bad though, and this time out, I was with a local and basically told Veronica that I would eat whatever she ordered. So, after a rousing game of Taiwanese pinball (彈珠台) — the tickets that came out were stamped with Hello Kitty, so basically I wanted to just keep the tickets instead of exchange them for prizes — we walked around and ate. A short list of consumed items: traditional oyster vermicelli (蚵仔麵線), stinky tofu, sausage wrapped in intestines, winter melon tea, liver soup, and pig’s blood.

The thing about eating this stuff was that it was always a mix of new and nostalgia. I had no idea what most anything was, much less the names of things, and constantly asked “what is this called, what is in it?” This is basically what happens at every meal. Just confusion, followed by some clarity, and then a struggle to remember. Some of the foods had immediate callbacks to childhood, some of the items were totally foreign.

We wrapped up the night by jumping on Ubikes, the bikeshare of Taipei. Even though traffic was everywhere, we took a lap around the busy streets of the Red Light District, cruising in a straight line as cars and mopeds sped on by. It wasn’t until later that I realized we could ride on the sidewalks. The night was the perfect opening to Taipei: exploration, eating, biking!

Popular posts from this blog

7 天

How many night markets are there in Taipei? Great question, JFGI! The problem is, there seems to be no easy answer. Shilin is the biggest one, located at the Jiantan stop on the red line. That’s the only one I had vivid memories of, but as it turned out, it’s also like the worst one. Unless you’re a tourist. The food there is pretty bleh and most of the things being sold in the underground food court are way too similar. Oh wait, Shilin does have some good shopping though, including this hip hoppy store, Trend Setting , where I bought great semi-harem-y capris, from a local Taiwanese brand no less. Anyway, Shilin is usually not the move unless you need to take a touristy sweep through the area. From what I hear, the best food is at Raohe, or at least that's the one my uncle prefers. Earlier in the night, I met Angie at Shida night market, which is located next to the university I’d be attending. It was quieter and smaller, mainly just one main drag, and the food there was defini...

6 天

I don’t know when Din Tai Fung became Taiwan’s number one export — at least in pop culture — but I guess it’s better than all the “Made in Taiwan” jokes from thirty years ago. When we were here in September, one of Frank’s main goals was to eat at a Din Tai Fung but we thought there were only two locations and I refused to stand in the extended lines for something that I could easily eat in LA. Plus, Din Tai Fung’s thing is that it’s supposed to be precisely uber-consistent at every location. Why stand in line? However I did acquiesce to going to the Taipei 101 location in the middle of the night when nobody else was there and taking photos with the red Din Tai Fung sign. Little did we know that there are Din Tai Fungs everywhere and if you time it correctly, the wait is only fifteen minutes or so. So Monday night was my first taste of Taiwan Din Tai Fung and my basic takeaway is that while it was pretty good — the non-dumpling stuff was a revelation — the thing I lusted for most wa...

4 天

On Saturday, I met up with another friend that I had met during our last trip, Angie. Since she knew about my predilection for noodles, we went to a beef noodle spot near her old college. The day was hot and muggy, and she wasn’t feeling particularly well after a weekend spent on a high mountain hike. The whole day stretched ahead so after eating, we took ourselves over to Xinyi (again) to catch a showing of Dracula Untold. This was my first proper Taiwanese movie experience and I have to go into the differences. First, there are lines for the line. You buy your ticket and then wait around until about five minutes before your movie, and then they let you in. You can reserve your tickets beforehand, but you need to pick up at least thirty minutes in advance, otherwise you lose them. Also, all the seats are assigned seating, which is nice. And if you go to the major theaters, they are invariably very crowded. The great thing though, is that despite the packed houses, people are not ...